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The Gambia, West Africa, is a small sliver of a country situated around the
Gambia river which snakes through the centre of Senegal. It was the centre of
the slave trade and the country of origin for the story "Roots". The
only real industry is peanuts, Tourism along the 45 miles of Atlantic Ocean
beachfront is still in its infancy with only six hotels of any note, occupied
mainly by Dutch and Scandinavian tourists who scandal the Muslim locals by going
topless (and sometimes bottomless) around the pool and on the beach. There was a
military take-over almost a year ago but to all intents and purposes it is a
peaceful reign. The capital is Banjul, a dusty little city of about 45,000
inhabitants. The people are kind and very friendly and seem to accept their lot
in life. 95% are Muslims with a few Catholics, Baptists and Anglicans.
The description of my project was "To help the Girl Guides of The Gambia
become financially self-sufficient in all areas of their work". Guiding,
mostly through the schools is very strong in the Gambia with over 5,000 girls
currently attending meetings in both urban and rural areas. The Guide leaders
are all School Teachers.
For several years Girl Guides of Canada (through C.I.D.A.) have been
subsidising The Gambia Girl Guides to the tune of $45,000 a year. 1995 was the
last year of this funding. With this money and other help they were able to
build a Skills Training Centre for young women. Incorporated in this centre, a
small guest house and conference hall were build as income-producing modules to
fund the Skills Training Centre. The literacy rate for women in the Gambia is
only 15%. ( For men it is 45%.)
The non-residential centre caters to young women who left school early,
perhaps through pregnancy or inability to pay for the uniform and young women
who have never been to school. Between the hours of 8.00 a.m., and 2.00 p.m., over 200 students are taught basic English, life skills including family
planning and S.T.D., simple maths and small business management, sewing with
hand and treadle machines, crafts, batik and tie and dye, cooking, nutrition and
table service and, for students who can already read and write, book-keeping,
typing and Pitman's shorthand.
The girls come from rural and urban areas, many travelling long hours by bus
or bush taxi but the drop-out rate is amazingly low, The desire to learn enough
to make an income and be a useful member of society overpowers the difficulties
of lack of good transportation and opposition from the men in their extended
family, most of whom do not understand the need to educate the girl child.
Ramu the Chief Guide Commissioner and an incredible lady, appointed four
trainees to work with me. These four ladies were all school teachers and had
been granted paid leave to work with me by the Minister of Education, (a lady of
great ability and determination). My trainees were also guide leaders and
commissioners and mothers and all were second or third wives. They wore an
endlessly changing array of traditional dresses and head coverings, flowing
colourful garments, elaborately trimmed with ribbon and lace. I called them my
flock of beautiful tropical butterflies, which they just loved and never got
tired of hearing. They had a wonderful capacity to laugh and enjoy simple
pleasures and were thirsting for knowledge.
We ate lunch together every day out of one large bowl, always rice and
vegetables, sometimes with fish, and very occasionally with meat. They ate with
their right hands but in deference to my lack of manual dexterity, provided me
with a spoon and fork. During meal-times they shared the trials and joys of
their daily lives with me and each other. Jumping between Wolaf and English with
an ease that constantly astonished me, they never left me out of the
conversation for very long.
The work to be done was extensive. So many areas were crying out for help
that I hardly knew where to start. At the end of my time there I was amazed to
realise the amount of work we had got through. The Guest House was spruced up
and named The Rosamund Guest House in honour of the first Guide Commissioner. A
brochure designed and rate cards were printed on my computer. All guide book
publishers were sent information and rate cards. By the time I had returned,
three had confirmed that they would be including this information in their next
edition and one informed us that they had already put the guest house on the
internet. Hotels and airline personnel, along with the U.S. Peace Corps office
were visited and they all promised to send guests seeking low cost ($12.00 a
night B & B ) accommodation.
The meeting hall was decorated with five very large abstract design batiks,
which we waxed and painted with dyes during the weekends. I designed a podium
and flip-charts which were constructed in redwood by boys at the Junior
Achievement school. The raised platform was transformed into a full stage with a
proscenium arch, full stage curtains, backdrop, flats and wings. A small storage
room off was converted into a dressing room. As soon as they get some lights and
a small sound system, (which I am trying to get donated) it will be one of the
finest performing arts centres in The Gambia. We called it The Ramu Hall in
honour of the current Commissioner.
The guest house lounge, renamed the Vero Hall and the cafeteria, renamed the
Harriet Cafe, were up-graded and, along with the Ramu hall, became the Kanifing
Conference and Social Centre, offering a full range of services for meetings,
parties and work-shops, including both on site and off site catering. A five
page brochure was designed and sent on computer disc to Springfield Printers in
the U.K., who printed 1000 copies at no charge to the Girl Guides. A local
publicity campaign was initiated and by the time I left, the Centre had a number
of bookings and was regularly sending food out to local business meetings.
The Girl Guides of Ontario sent a container of craft items and some old
computers, printers and books. Nothing matched and it took many, many nights of
work to sort through everything and set up a small computer training room.
Finally, discarding the old Commodores and an IBM Screenwriter, a behemoth with
12 inch floppy discs, I was able to connect five 286 computers, one even had a
coloured screen. I purged all the old programs and files out of the computers,
including a lawyers file of over 3000 Kitchener residents' wills, and I
installed Dos 3.0 and Word Perfect 5.1. I taught Dos and WordPerfect. 5.1 to ten or
twelve ladies twice a day, using a manual and keeping one step ahead of the
class by reading under my mosquito net by flash-light every night! By the time I
had left most of the ladies had a good handle on the computer and those darn F
Keys, although I still don't remember them all. Windows and my mouse get me
through at home! All this by a lady who was not even computer literate five
years ago. Thank goodness for my laptop Help program.
Computers are just starting to come into The Gambia so computer classes will
be a big income producer for the school. I am trying to get some more computers
donated, hopefully some 386's, along with training manuals so that they can run
a full computer training centre. I designed a course program and fee structure,
along with an advertising and promotion plan and even before I left the first
classes of 10 were booked. We even had a request for private lessons from one of
the Senior Ministers who had bought a laptop on an overseas trip and did not
want anyone to know that it just sat collecting dust and looking important on
his very impressive desk!
The sewing, crafts and tie and dye classes are very important, particularly
for the illiterate, who can make a living in the craft markets patronised by the
tourists. The problem is that every stall sells the same few things, most of
which are poorly designed. As an artist I was in my element in this area and all
the books and craft materials in my very overweight suitcases were drooled over
(and left behind).
An unused classroom was converted into a design and sample studio, complete
with hand-painted sign over the door.. Over 20 new product lines were developed
with samples made by the teaching staff, who then passed on the skills to the
students. These included children's dresses, ladies nightgowns, beach pareos (in
a special design I called Gambios but which my ladies insisted on calling
wrappers), Crocheted Rasta hats with long mock braids made from black wool,
batik eyeglass cases, batik reversible vests, ladies un-lined jackets and a
loose one-size-fits-all sun dress and jacket. I even designed and had a souvenir
T Shirt printed, which we sold to the tourists on the beach on Sunday
afternoons.
The Gambians make wonderful, strong baskets, totally unadorned. I showed them
how to decorate them with ribbon embroidery, beads, sea shells and crocheted
flowers I had a team of six students, I called them my basket friends, and every
day I taught them design principals and use of materials. By the time I left
they had produced a whole range of great looking baskets the tourists just
loved.
It was important to produce items that local people would buy throughout the
year so we made macramé pot hangers and purses (they had never seen macramé before and just went crazy over it). We also made braided rag rugs out of used
clothes and odds and ends of fabric. As the whole of The Gambia is endlessly
covered with a film of fine red dust during the dry season, these were snapped
up by staff and local visitors. Crocheted toilet sets of tank and seat covers
and floor mat were innovative and popular, as indoor bathrooms are a status
symbol. Probably some of the buyers just wanted to impress their friends and did
not even have indoor plumbing! I also designed a slip cover for a folding chair
and we made samples to take around the local hotels, which generated quite a
number of large orders and which will probably be an on-going income producer. I
designed border patterns for tie and dye and showed them batik using wax
crayons. I also taught them fabric painting with little bottles of commercial
fabric paints sent in the container from Ontario. I think I can honestly say
that the craft markets in The Gambia will never be the same since my work there.
An old storeroom was converted into a boutique where the goods could be
displayed and offered to the tourists. Of course there was no money for shelves
or counters but with whitewashed concrete blocks and boards, and fabric covered
packing boxes we made a good display. Simple inventory control, cost pricing etc
was also taught. Two tour operators who ran bus trips in the area agreed to include a stop at the school as part of their program. One uses the school as a
refreshment stop, enabling the school to make a little money on the sale of soft
drinks and snacks as well as the chance to sell souvenirs from the Boutique.
Notices were made and put up in the tourist areas and in the local supermarkets
and although it was a bit off the beaten track, quite a few tourists found their
way by taxi or on foot.
The school had not held a graduation ceremony for over two years but we were
able to pull one together the last Saturday of my visit. The police band turned
out, along with several ministers and other government officials Brightly garbed
mothers of the graduates and many past students added to the throng. The
Conference Centre was officially opened by the lady Minister of Sports and Youth
Services and computer generated Graduation Certificates, duly tied with red
ribbons, were presented by the Minister of Education. At my instigation, the top
student in typing received a portable typewriter and the top student in sewing,
a portable sewing machine.
Although these items were much used and worn and probably would have been
thrown out by a North American, they were received with great gratitude and many
tears of joy by the recipients. Top students in other classes received gifts of
small cooking utensils, writing paper and pens and small craft items, all
scavenged from the container sent from Canada. A local soft drinks bottling
plant donated pop and the cooking class made snacks. As I watched the girls in
their best dresses walk across the red dust of that unpaved courtyard where the
ceremony took place, I could not but help think "What a contrast to the
expensive prom dresses, the limos and the fine hotel ballrooms, food and drinks
North American graduates expect" Yet I don't think they could have been any
happier than "my girls" were that afternoon.
The next day I was given a party in the same courtyard. The pot luck lunch
and supper provided by the Guiders included the oyster stew I had grown to love
while I was there, grilled grouper, lady fish and my all time favourite, shrimp
in an avocado half with a Marie Rose sauce I had taught them to make when I
first arrived.
Entertainment was provided by a three man drumming group who I joined on a
couple of occasions. The Tribal dancing group of students and guiders was joined
by many local children, drawn by the sound of the drums, who sneaked in and were
afterwards given bowls of spicy rice left over from out feast. I was presented
with two lovely local costumes and, to the sound of great cheering the name of
the craft boutique was unveiled. The Barbara Boutique, its doorway framed in
hand-painted vines and hibiscus flowers, is a generous tribute to one of the
most interesting experiences of my life.
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